As should we all, I find it important to take a break from work. For me as an Outdoor Portrait Photographer in Dorset much of the work is still spent behind a desk running the business. As February isn’t known for good weather when I spotted a rare sunny square on the forecast map, I booked in a day hike. The only question was where.
I scoured the map for a solid loop; something challenging, with hills to climb and somewhere worth pointing a camera at. The new forest didn’t appeal to me this time, too flat. Ideally I wanted a place with hills to climb, great places to explore and an ideal landscape photography location.
St Albans Head on the Jurassic Coast, Dorset, confusingly has St Aldhelm’s Church. Some call it St Albans, others St Aldhelm. I’m guessing someone got it wrong centuries ago and it stuck! Anyway, it was to be the location for the day hike but as I had done it before I added an extension.
Starting at the Square and Compass pub and it’s amazing little museum (I wont go into it or we will be here all day. Maybe on another post one day as seem to start/finish hikes here a lot!) I trekked east along the lane into the field and looking to find the path further west, the aim being Seacombe ledge. This path started of ok but the down hill bits turned into a mudslide. A hiking pole kept me upright-ish and the scenery a spring green in the glowing low sun. Little streams trickled through the centre of the valley creating a natural soundtrack to a wind and cloud free day.
Seacombe Ledge
It was such a peaceful day I was surprised to see huge waves crashing on the ledge. The sea cliffs were masking their sound which I only noticed when approaching the gap for Seacombe ledge. I probably spent too long here admiring the waves showing off their turquoise colour as they were lit behind from the low sun. There is an old quarry at Seacombe with many caves but they are fenced with warning signs. With much of the cliffs here crumbling, it’s just too dangerous to enter. I’ve been in others along this stretch before and they’re all the same, square cut chambers. Nothing like a natural cave, and not worth the risk. The ledge by the quarry is enough, plenty of huge fossils around, Id stopped for a coffee-break and it wasn’t until leaving I realised I’d rested my bag on a huge ammonite!
Realising just how much time I was using up I pushed on, through the muddy gates, exploring just one little hidden tropical quarry (cool spot, must go back in the spring!) and then up the hill to St Albans head. This is the mud party, it always is this time of year. Thankfully there is now an inland route which is a lot less squelchy than the cliff edge and handy for me since I needed to make up time.
The Radar Station
At the peak of St Albans Head are the ruins of an old radar station, a working coastguard lookout, and plenty of climbable bouldering problems (climbing routes). That wasn’t for me this time, I got round to my favourite lunch spot, a short cliff face great for traversing. 4pm was a little late for lunch so it was a quick stop, not climbing today, I wanted to make it to the sunset spot and first, there was a challenge ahead.
The Steps
Stairs, or steps, whatever you want to call them are ok, but when they are muddy and you are in a rush not so fun. 221 steps down, immediately followed by 294 back up. I knew it was coming. Dreading it, but also strangely up for it. 4 mins down and 4 mins up. If it wasn’t stopping for the quick photo on the way down it would have been continuous too. That’s a thigh burner!
I could see the sun setting as I approached the view of Chapmans Pool, I was right on time!
Sunset at Chapman’s Pool
The crashing waves were creating a sea mist that allowed the cliff edge to separate into layers giving beautiful depth. I spent a lot of time here, watching the changing light until there was barely any light. The half moon lit my way back across the fields, its reflection sitting quietly in the puddles as I reached the van, a warm cuppa waiting before the drive home.
Just before we go, here’s couple more views of the lovely dusk scene. The bay of Chapmans pool with the peak of Houns tout and more impressively the sea spray mist creating layers in the landscape.
Good night.
📍 Route: Square and Compass – St Aldhelm’s Head – Seacombe Ledge – Chapman’s Pool
🗺 Approx Distance: 10km
⛰ Terrain: Coastal cliffs, mud in winter, 600+ steps (up and down)
☕ Reward: Big Waves, no wind, Sunset, & van cuppa
4 responses
Absolutely beautiful, so breathtaking, brilliantly written and draws you in to thinking you are there along side Adam. The huge ammonite is amazing. Loved reading every single word, can’t wait for the next adventure Adam. ❤️
Excellent Adam , just happy I didn’t have to try all those steps. Beautiful photography.
Brilliant! Beautiful scenery showed off to perfection by some amazing photography. Loved the narrative and it definitely makes the reader want to go there too, mind you the steps would be very challenging for a ‘not-so-fit’ OAP like me. Look forward to reading about your next adventure Mr de Ste Croix 🙂